Scrapbooking with Anne-Marie
Gloria Bastos is joined by Anne-Marie Steyn of Scrap-a-doodles and she’ll be showing us how to revive normal decorative items. First, show how to transfer photo’s onto wooden surfaces and then later show how to stencil beautiful designs on glass and ceramics.
Anne-Marie Steyn 010 286 0010
Painting On Glass & Ceramics
- A cloth and some earbuds
- Bowl of water
- Ceramic dinner or cake plate
- A craft or teflon mat
- Rubbing alcohol
- Martha Stewart tape
- Foam pouncer
- Martha Stewart Adhesive stencil (Silkscreens & paper) designs
- Black and red Martha Stewart glass paint
- Step 1: Wash your hands thoroughly and dry completely, clean the plate with rubbing alcohol to remove any grease from the surface.
- Step 2: Before removing the backing from the stencil, decide where you want to apply the stencil. Once you have decided remove the backing and press the design onto the plate and rub hard to remove any bubbles or creases.
- Step 3: To prevent paint going over edges of design, you can use the Martha Stewart tape. Squeeze the paint out onto the craft mat. Load the foam pouncer with paint. (You can also use the squeegee if working on a flat surface eg: mirror, plate etc.)
- Step 4: Now dab the paint over stencil onto plate. Give it one thin layer and then a second layer to make sure it is covered properly. Avoid overloading the stencil surface, as too much paint can cause the colour to seep under the edges of the stencil. If you accidentally apply too much paint, you can use a small squeegee to gently remove the excess and smooth the surface.
- Step 5: Peel the stencil off carefully while the paint is still wet. Colours and different kinds of Martha Stewart paints can be overlapped. Place new design onto plate and add the second colour following same procedure as above. If you accidently go over the edges, remove the still wet paint with a wet earbud or glass scraper.
- Step 6: Peel the stencil off carefully while the paint is still wet and clean your stencil immediately. Let it dry before returning it to the backing.
- Step 7: Now the design needs to cure, there two methods you can use. Once it’s cured your item is ready to use
- Air Dry Method: Paint is permanent after air drying 21 days. It will then be dishwasher top-shelf safe.
- Bake method: This will speed up curing. Let project air dry 1 hour, place in cool oven. Set temperature to 180 degrees. Once oven reaches 180 degrees, bake for 30 minutes (glass must heat and cool off gradually to avoid shattering). After 30 minutes, turn oven off. Let glass cool completely in oven, 3 – 4 hours. Wait 72 hours before using. NOTE: DO NOT OVEN-CURE THE FINE GLITTER FINISH. AIR-CURE ONLY!!!
- Raw wooden cube
- White acrylic paint
- Foam paint brushes, scissors, wax paper, spatula, sandpaper and sponge
- A photocopy of the picture you want to use on regular paper
- Martha Stewart transfer medium/gel.
- Scrapbooking inks
Note: this technique can be used to transfer images onto glass and fabric by following the same steps and using the specially-formulated Phototransfer finishes from Martha Stewart Crafts Decoupage. Transfers last longer than paper photographs, so this decoration can remain a fixture for years.
- Step 1: Paint the wooden cube with white acrylic paint and let it dry completely.
- Step 2: Lay your picture down on the cube and see if you need to trim any excess, it must fit perfectly and preferably not overlap the sides.
- Step 3: Lay image face up on a sheet of wax paper. Using a foam brush, apply a smooth even generous layer of transfer medium/gel. Make sure there are no ridges or bubbles. Let it dry for 24 hours.
- Step 4: Using a damp sponge, gently start to rub off the paper backing in a circular motion. The transferred image will remain as the paper comes off. Repeat this process until you no longer see paper fibers.
- Step 5: Starting on one side of the cube, apply gel and lay your picture face down on that side (the white side of the paper should face you). Apply light pressure with a spatula to squeeze out excess gel, Let it dry.
- Step 6: Repeat step 5 with the other sides of the cube until all the sides are covered. Allow the cube to dry, when the cube is dry you can ink the edges or even sand them lightly.